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July 3, 2022

2020-2022: The covid archives (part 3)

Should you ever get nostalgic, here's every pandemic update I wrote, buried in the deepest corner of the internet I can find.

This post may contain affiliate links, from which I receive a small commission on any resulting purchases at no cost to the customer. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. It keeps The Koh Samui Guide ad-free, never sponsored and 100% independent. See privacy policy for more details.

Should you ever get nostalgic about 2020 (and 2021 ... and a decent chunk of 2022)... here's every pandemic update I wrote, buried in the deepest corner of the internet I can find. 27,445 words on covid-era Thailand travel. >>Shudder<<. Below, find everything that was in descending chronology.

Much more fun to read? The Koh Samui Guide. Unlike much of the below, it involves planes and alcohol.

November 2020

Welcome back to the world of “maybe-hopefully-soon”. The key difference to all previous Thailand/COVID updates? I’m determined that this post will be good news and lots of it. Here’s how: pretend you’re reading it to a golden retriever. No matter the content, ascend an octave, raise your eyebrows to your hairline and read aloud. Ready? Let’s learn all the ways we’re not going anywhere.

‍Caveat of all caveats: To the best of my knowledge and obsessive fact-checking, everything below is correct at time of writing (Nov 27, 2020). However, things are changing constantly and one positive COVID case can (and has) reversed course on new plans and proposals. Most of all, regulations differ depending on your country and there is SO MUCH grey area.

As such, please consider the following a rough guide rather than hard facts – use it as a Mad Libs sheet to fill in according to your specific situation. As you have a grasp of the basics, your best bet in all cases is to contact your country’s Royal Thai Embassy or your closest consulate as well as your local Thai Airways office (if applicable). For my part, I’ll keep the updates coming (typed with one sleeve rolled to my elbow awaiting vaccination). Join my email list to get future updates straight to your inbox.

If you’re brand new (hello!), here’s a quick dictionary and recap of what’s in place so far:

‍Read first: Thailand/COVID 101

‍If you're brand new to the idea of bushwhacking your way to Thailand during COVID, start with the October update and then come back and read this post. A few minor details have changed (for example: if you're ineligible for an STV, you might have other options now) but, together, they'll give you the full picture. Important: don't allow yourself to get confused until you've read both posts from start to finish. It will make as much sense as it can by the end. If it all sounds impossible and hellish, just go back to bed with some boxed wine. It's 2020 and you're allowed.

‍What does _____ mean?

ASQ: Alternative State Quarantine: If you want to enter Thailand – as a tourist, a returning Thai citizen, pretty much anyone – you’re spending 15 nights/16 days in ASQ. At the time of writing, there are 113 approved ASQ hotels in Bangkok – here are your 70 best options (including a few apartments). This post also provides an overview of what ASQ packages involve, plus pricing details (and why you might want to get married).

‍ALSQ: Alternative Local State Quarantine: Note: Not currently in operation and perhaps unlikely to. Locations including Phuket and Koh Samui. While Koh Samui pricing and package details haven’t been announced yet, the Bangkok information gives an early frame of reference. At the minute, it looks unlikely that ALSQ will happen any time soon (but ... that could change tomorrow).

‍SHA: Safety and Health Administration certification: A blue “SHA” badge will indicate that the establishment has passed a detailed inspection and follows all recommended COVID health measures.

‍STV: Special Tourist Visa

‍Find out who’s eligible for an STV, what the application involves and how to apply (below).

‍Thailand Travel Updates

‍If you're a regular reader – join us here for your updates. As a quick catch-up, Thailand’s been doing relatively well with its COVID numbers and the mandatory quarantine period is proving largely successful at preventing wider community spread. Unfortunately, the system hasn’t been perfect. One case involved a woman who, having completed her quarantine, then travelled to Koh Samui and tested positive for COVID a few days later. It’s believed she caught the virus at some point during her quarantine hotel stay (but no one really knows for certain). No one else was infected but, as a result of this and a few unrelated cases, we’re unlikely to see a reduction in the length of ASQ stays.

‍Alternative State Quarantine (ASQ) Updates

1. Two-week quarantine period remains: Prior to the event mentioned above, officials were considering reducing the ASQ period from 14 to 10 days for visitors from low-risk countries (such as Australia New Zealand, Taiwan and South Korea). That’s not happening (for now at least).

‍2. More ASQ hotels added: You've now got more ASQ options. In total, there are 118 ASQ hotels (and apartments) at time of writing – I've chosen those I think are best and have added 30 new ASQ hotels and apartments to this running list. (Look for the blue ‘New’ tag).

‍3. ASQ prices: Some of that good news I promised. With my late November update (30 more hotels), there’s now a much wider price range of ASQ hotels with many room options now starting at 32,000 THB (vs 65,000 THB in October). Expect this pattern to continue – more choice at more price points. If interested, I've added some rough figures for ASQ average prices.

‍4. Big Brother’s (probably) going to be watching… A friendly heads-up that, after completing ASQ, you’ll probably need to have a tracking app on your phone, plus or minus frequent check-ins with official people who want to know where you are. (Details are sparse, but greater oversight had been suggested for visitors completing shorter quarantine periods which are – again – scrapped for now).

‍5. What's your vote? Thailand insider Richard Barrow polled his followers about their interest in ASQ this week: “Are you a tourist considering a holiday to Thailand? Under what conditions would you visit?” With 3,300 responses at the time of writing, 62% said they’ll only travel when quarantine restrictions are lifted. What's your vote?

‍Visa UpdatesSpecial Tourist Visa (STV): So far, 681 people have successfully applied for STVs – a new visa available only to those from low-risk countries. What's changed? Flight options have expanded. Whereas previously only charter and private flights were available, you now have a variety of semi-commercial options (details follow further in this post).

‍60-Day Tourist Visas (TV): I can’t tell if this (A) wasn’t clear before or (B) is a new option, but visitors from medium- and high-risk countries are allowed to apply for a regular 60-Day Tourist Visa (the same kind you might have had in the Olden Times). ASQ requirements, administrative-hoop-jumping and everything else still apply – it’s just a shorter stay. On paper, this means that – yes – Americans can travel to Thailand (caveat emptor, caveat emptor).

What’s a low-risk, medium-risk or high-risk country according to Thailand? As of November 1, the following are an inexhaustive list of who’s-who. (If you don’t see your country listed, please check with your country’s Royal Thai Embassy or Consulate). Reminder – this changes! Often!

Low-risk countries: Australia, New Zealand, China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Singapore, Estonia, Norway, BrazilMedium-risk countries: Canada, Japan, UAE, South Africa, Indonesia, Germany, India, Denmark, Malaysia, Israel, Philippines

High-risk countries: Myanmar, Austria, Sweden, Netherlands, Switzerland, France, Russia, UK and the U.S.

Note: Obviously all of these details are changing constantly. If you have questions specific to your situation, start with your country’s Royal Thai embassy/consulate. This isn’t to say that Thailand is accepting visitors from every country – just that they might be and it’s worth checking. Who's loving this and having fun yet?

‍Income requirements: Whereas the STV was launched with a proof of funds requirement of THB 500,000 spanning the past six months, this detail is quietly changing (or disappearing) in some locations. It’s worth double-checking the income requirement on your country’s Royal Thai Embassy or Consulate website. The Thaiger reports a different amount on a U.S.-based Thai Consulate site, whereas European Thai embassies mention no such detail. Just one of many (many) things changing daily.

‍Upcoming: Easy-Booking Packages: On December 1, The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) will start offering "Amazing Thailand Plus Special Package” through March 31, 2021. The intent is to streamline some of the admin currently required: visas, ASQ hotel booking and flights can be booked as one package either through Thai Airways or TAT’s website (not yet available – check on Dec 1).

‍Flight/Airline UpdatesGood news! As of November, there are limited “semi-commercial” options available for those who need them and qualify for entry to Thailand – e.g. Special Tourist Visa (STV) or Tourist Visas (TR) holders, business and other essential travel (you’ll need a Certificate of Entry to fly).

Further options (including those listed below) will become available on December 1. My best suggestion is to clarify details specific to your situation with the local office of your preferred airline, as well as the Royal Thai embassy or your closest consulate.

Air France (TBC)
Austrian Airlines (VIE-BKK)
Cathay Pacific (HKG-BKK)
Emirates (DXB-BKK, HKG-BKK)
Etihad Airlines (AUH-BKK)
Eva Air (TPE-BKK, LHR-BKK)
Gulf Air (BAH-BKK)
KLM (TBC)
Korean Air (ICN-BKK)
Lufthansa (FRA-BKK)
Malaysia Airlines (KUL-BKK)
Qatar Airways (DOH-BKK)
Philippine Airlines (MNL-BKK)
Singapore Airlines (SIN-BKK)
Swiss Air (ZHR-BKK)
Thai Airways (LHR, FRA, CPH, HKG, NRT, TPE and SYD to BKK)
Thai Smile (CKG-BKK)

The above is current at the time of writing but options (airlines, routes and frequency) will likely increase in the coming months so use the list as a rough guide and check with your preferred airlines for updates.

‍ALSQ in Koh Samui

‍Although 10 Koh Samui hotels have been approved for Alternative Local State Quarantine (ALSQ), this remains a designation in name only. No further details are available and none are currently operating as such. With no international flights into Koh Samui or Phuket and the significant increase in ASQ options in BKK … my guess is ALSQ is a preparedness plan for the future, not an imminent option.

‍Vaccines!

‍Who’s already lining up to play human pin cushion! Vaccination in Thailand is likely to begin in mid-2021 according to the director of their National Vaccine Institute (NVI). Meanwhile, you’ve perhaps read reports that Qantas and The International Air Transport Association (IATA) have said that proof of vaccine or a vaccine passport will be required for future international travel. We might expect that this is what we’re waiting for before commercial travel resumes and ASQ goes away. For my part, that’s the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel. Sign. Me. Up.

‍Your Thailand/COVID FAQs

1. Is Thailand accepting travellers from the USA? Although Thailand currently considers the U.S. ‘high risk’ (see above), you can – apparently – apply for a 60-day tourist visa. The best place to start is with the Royal Thai embassy or your closest consulate.

‍2. We have a villa in Koh Samui. Do you know if we can get back to actually live in it during COVID restrictions? Following a stay in ASQ, I believe you could – depending on your home country and which visa you have or would qualify for. My best suggestion would be to double-check with the Royal Thai Consulate-General in your country. Visa specifics seem to differ country by country, depending on which locations are low/medium/high risk. If you’re not eligible for an STV or a retirement visa, you might qualify for a 60-day tourist visa.

‍3. How many days is ASQ? It’s for fifteen days. Your arrival day is considered “Day Zero” because you’re still interacting with other people and therefore aren’t fully quarantined. So consider “Day 1” to be the first day entirely on your lonesome, meaning you’re let out fourteen days later, on “Day 15”.

‍4. How can we fly to Thailand if only charter or private flights are available? See above for updated flight and airline details.

‍5. Do ASQ packages include food? Yes. All packages include three daily meals, delivered pre-packaged like a (hopefully) more delicious airline meal. As food delivery services (unless cooked at home by a relative … don’t ask, no idea) are banned, your snacking is limited to room service options or whatever you're able to rustle up in your kitchen – some ASQ options include small kitchenettes or even full apartment kitchens. Many hotels have made valiant attempts to include healthy options.

‍Resources and further reading

October 2020 (part 2)

As I've mentioned in previous Thailand vs COVID-19 travel updates, if you want to enter Thailand – as a tourist, a returning Thai citizen, pretty much anyone – you're spending 14 days in 'Alternative State Quarantine' (ASQ).

‍Alternative State Quarantine (ASQ) Hotels in Thailand

What's ASQ? It's a Bangkok hotel room with tons of Netflix, lots of room service, and two or three COVID tests on the side. At the time of writing, there are 147 approved ASQ hotels in Bangkok – and a shorter list of 'ALSQ' (Alternative Local State Quarantine) hotels in Phuket, Chonburi, Burirum and Prachiburi.

‍How to book your ASQ hotel? Previously ASQ had to be booked directly through the hotel, but an official partnership with Agoda means you now can easily price-shop and compare available dates (find them linked per hotel, below).

‍Below, find the 70 best ASQ hotels sorted by their review rating on Booking.com. While there are 100+ ASQ options available, the following are amongst the best-reviewed and offer a good idea of pricing and room options.

‍April 1, 2021: The quarantine duration has been reduced from 15 nights to 10 nights (with a few exclusions). Prices below reflect the original price for 15 nights. May 1, 2021: ASQ is back to 14 days.

‍Alternative State Quarantine FAQs

ASQ Packages: What do ASQ packages include?

‍Unless stated otherwise, package pricing typically includes:

accommodation for up to 15 nights (16 days) – reduced to 10 nights for most travellers
full-board (3 daily meals delivered to your room)
two or three COVID tests (woo!)
twice-daily temperature checks (human contact!) and/or 24-hour nurse on-call
airport transfer (one-way) from either Bangkok Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang Airport

Typical amenities include Wi-Fi, Smart TV and newspaper access through an app. Some hotels offer cleaning every other day, plus a discount on room service, laundry, etc.

Reservations must be made (A) directly through the hotel or (B) through Agoda's ASQ booking partnership. I've also linked each hotel to its Booking.com listing so you have easy access to a photo gallery and more reviews.

‍Do ASQ packages include food? Yes, but (and I'll repeat this a lot) alcohol is not allowed. All packages below include three daily meals, usually delivered pre-packaged like a (hopefully) more delicious airline meal. As food delivery services (unless cooked at home by a relative ... don't ask, no idea) are banned, your snacking is limited to room service options. Many hotels have made valiant attempts to include healthy options.

‍ASQ Prices

Prices are for single occupancy – inquire directly for double occupancy or family rates. As a reference, these are average prices from a few hotels:

Extra adult (or child aged 13+): THB 55,000 net (US$1760)
Child aged 1-12: THB 45,000 net (US$1440)
Infant: THB 30,000 net (US$960)

Most prices are net (and are subject to change). Typically, add 17% for government tax and service fees to find the total (but please check the fine print as a few prices are inclusive of tax).

‍What's the average price of an ASQ hotel? First, note that my list of the 70 best ASQ hotels includes only those rated 8/10 or higher on Booking.com. As such, if you're hunting for a deal, you might not find it below. What you will find? Big windows, high standards, rave reviews and the occasional kitchen, washing machine, river view or outdoor terrace.

‍For standard rooms, single occupancy:

Lowest price: 32,000 THB (or US$1,056/£800)
Average price: 49,000 THB (or US$1,626/£1233)
Highest price: 150,000 THB (or US$4,950/£3,750)

For suites and family rooms, double or triple occupancy is variously included or excluded from the price – making an exact average trickier to calculate. However, roughly, if you want the biggest room and the most space (including outdoor space), this is an inexact reference point:

Lowest price: 39,000 THB (or US$1,287/£800)
Average price: 85,000 THB (or US$2,810/£2,129)
Highest price: 250,000 THB (or US$8,250/£6,250)

Good news? I first published this list in early October with 40 ASQ hotels and, at the time, most room options started at around 65,000 THB. With my late November update (30 more hotels), there's now a much wider price range – with many room options now starting at 32,000 THB. Expect this pattern to continue – more choice at more price points.

‍Discounts? Many hotels offer a discount for Thai citizens and occasionally permanent residents (5% is common, 10% a rarer treat). I've also seen discounts offered for particular types of Thai credit cards – definitely worth asking if you're a returning resident.

‍What else to know about ASQGet married (or be lonely): As I understand the ASQ rules, only married couples and parent/child are eligible for double occupancy, otherwise, you and your partner have to stay in separate rooms. You’ll have to provide a copy of your marriage certificate; common law doesn't count in quarantine!

‍Food and drink

No alcohol. Repeat: 15 nights of quarantine. Possibly in a single hotel room with your spouse or child. With no alcohol.

‍No outside food delivery unless cooked at home by a relative who delivers it and signs a release form ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

‍The outside world: After approximately 6 or 7 days' Fun Fest 3000 inside, you might earn some prison yard outside time – for about an hour a day. If you have a negative COVID test. Rules vary here – some hotels allow access to certain fitness facilities and others encourage walking (but not running) in the hotel gardens.

October 2020 (part 1)

Comparing the fourth quarter of this year to last, foreign tourism to Thailand is down >>drumroll<< 99.5%. Picking up from my previous post, here's an early October update on the Special Tourist Visa and other pertinent immigration details.

‍Who can enter Thailand today (or soon)?

Foreign nationals with a Special Tourist Visa
Foreign nationals travelling for business are eligible for a 60-day non-immigrant visa (with bank statements demonstrating a balance of ≥THB500,000 for the previous six months.
“APEC Business Travel Card” holders – Foreign nationals from one of eighteen “low-risk” APEC countries travelling for business or government purposes
“Sportspersons who will compete in a closed area”
Thailand Elite members (see below)

Thailand's Special Tourist Visa [Updates]

‍The first month of Special Tourist Visa kicks off next week – very much in trial phase as officials cross their fingers that (A) it works and everyone is kept safe and (B) the Thai tourism industry gets a small, but much-needed, cash injection. Indeed, the first 120 STV visitors are due to arrive on October 8th … from China (¯\_(ツ)_/¯).

Who’s eligible for an STV? “Low-risk” countries (TBA). Sorry, Donald. Up to 300 visitors per week

STV application period: Applications are open now until next year, 30 September 2021.

Minimum stay: Including quarantine (14 nights), there’s a total 30-day minimum stay.

Before departure

Travel insurance: Applicants will need to have health insurance coverage up to THB3,000,000 (approx US$95,000). For reference, World Nomads offers two travel insurance plans for Thailand that meet this requirement – Standard Plan and Explorer Plan – though the exact level of coverage varies depending on your country of residence. For U.S. residents, the Standard Plan covers up to US$100,000 in emergency medical whereas Canadian and Kiwi residents receive up to CA/NZ$5,000,000 on the same plan. (See more FAQs about COVID and travel insurance).
COVID test: ≤72 hours before departure
Completed paperwork including a consent form that you’ll follow Thailand’s COVID rules, Fit to Fly Certificate and Medical Certificate for General Passengers.
Show proof of payment for your post-quarantine accommodation (e.g. a hotel booking) or a house deed if staying with a friend or relative.

Flights: Only international charter flights or private (!) flights are allowed at the minute. Soooo... find a rich friend? (Sorry Donald, you fell at the first hurdle).

On arrival: 14-day mandatory quarantine (and COVID tests galore).

‍Quarantine details

‍Quick refresh: no matter your visa type, you'll have to quarantine for 14 days (at your cost) at a certified hotel in Bangkok (AQS) or, coming soon, in Koh Samui (Alternative Local State Quarantine or ALQS). Heads up – no alcohol.

Quarantine ... without day-drinking:

Think fourteen days of quarantine with no alcohol sounds dull? (I think we’ve established it’s not my quarantine brand). To spice things up (while stone-cold sober), AQS hotels are considering events and programs that guests will be able to watch from their hotel window or balcony. As well, they plan to offer all the virtual content you’ve been meaning to try since March: yoga, meditation, and online cooking classes. I don’t want to be cynical but – would you rather be at home with your boxed wine and Netflix?

7 days of quarantine? Just maybe (but probably not). While the Special Tourist Visa (STV) goes into its trial phase next week, if it’s safe and successful, tourism officials are considering reducing the 14-day quarantine period to 7 days. Expect details on this in November, contingent on 98.6% negative COVID tests from the first batch of STV visitors (296 out of 300 must test negative, sorry Donald).

‍How to apply for a Special Tourist Visa?

‍Three options, in increasing order of price.1. The normal way: Contact the Royal Thai Embassy in your country.2. The Longstay Thailand Company: Receive administrative assistance in getting an STV. 10,000 THB (+7%) application service fee to get help with the various hoop-jumping (approx US$315).3. Join Thailand Elite: Got deep pockets and would rather pay someone to do the admin for your Special Tourist Visa? Apply to join Thailand Elite and get a five-year multi-entry visa with all the assistance you need would expect for half a million Baht. Quarantine is still required but … probably comes with decent thread-count and really fancy water. (Memberships starting at THB500,000 / approx. US$16,000 with a 3+ month waiting period).

Don’t want to do any of the above? Hold tight until 2021. In the meantime, take a look at some deeply discounted Koh Samui hotel rates for late summer next year – with no prepayment and free cancellation.

‍Alternative Local State Quarantine (ALSQ)

‍In addition to Alternative State Quarantine accommodation (ASQ) in Bangkok, a handful of Koh Samui properties are in the process of registering for Alternative Local State Quarantine (ALSQ). Meaning? You can quarantine for the 14 days in (A) a big city you can’t explore or (B) on a pretty island you can’t see.

So far, 8 Koh Samui hotels are registered as ALSQ hotels with 15 more awaiting inspection. The hotels haven’t been announced yet but there are 8 ALSQ hotels in Phuket that give a good hint: Phuket’s list includes two Anantaras and a Banyan Tree property.

‍Visa extensions

‍The September 26 deadline for visa extensions has been further extended to October 31st for individuals who have been in Thailand since March who still can’t return to their passport country for lack of flights, closed borders, etc.

Now what? Join my email list and I'll make sure you continue to get updates as we wade our way through the murk and muck of 2020.

‍Resources and further reading

September 2020 (part 2)

You know how you have no idea what’s going on in your own life/household/city/country right now? Confusion, cancelled plans and “maybe-hopefully-soons”? It’s much the same in Thailand.As yet unresolved: How to (A) keep Thai people safe and continue an incredibly successful COVID response while (B) encouraging tourism once again (an industry responsible for approximately 20% of the Thai economy). For now, while a tidy answer to Question B eludes us all, Thailand’s borders remain shut to many – including the casual foreign traveller.

Please note: These following details are changing weekly daily and nothing is officially set in place yet (though new tourist visa details were announced yesterday). As you’ll read below, a variety of ideas and plans are being considered for the short-, medium- and long-term. For the most up-to-date information, please bookmark and refer to:

World Nomads’ Coronavirus (COVID-19) travel restrictions in Thailand
Thailand’s Department of Disease Control coronavirus updates.

Who can enter Thailand today?

‍In addition to Thai nationals (and their spouses, parents or children), non-Thai nationals with valid residence permits (or permission to get a residence permit) and non-Thai nationals with valid work permits (and their spouses and children), the following visitors are allowed to enter Thailand today:

Diplomatic personnel (including their spouse, parents, or children)
Carriers of necessary goods, subject to immediate return upon completion
Flight crew “who are required to travel into the Kingdom on a mission, and have a specified date and time for return”
Non-Thai nationals who are students of educational institutions approved by Thai authorities (including the student’s parents or guardians)
Non-Thai nationals who need medical treatment in Thailand and their attendants (excludes treatment for COVID-19)
Non-Thai nationals who are permitted to enter the kingdom under special arrangement
Non-Thai nationals participating in trade fairs in Thailand
Foreign film crews coming for filming in Thailand
Foreign workers from Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar for food and construction industries

Those who qualify to enter Thailand must meet a variety of entry requirements and, on arrival, quarantine for fourteen days at their own expense. Thai nationals are allowed to use state facilities, while foreigners must stay at Alternative State Quarantine accommodation (AQS).

‍Alternative State Quarantine accommodation (AQS)

‍Currently, there are eighty-eight ASQ hotels in Bangkok – including two Anantaras, the Conrad, the Shangri-La and so on. It doesn’t have to be awful. Packages include three daily in-room meals (because you’re not going anywhere), laundry discounts and COVID tests galore. If you’re weighing your options for this situation ... just spend the big bucks and choose a big balcony. (P.S. No alcohol in quarantine, but you’re overdue for a detox, right?).

Do these prohibitions matter to would-be holidaymakers? Given that agencies such as the Foreign and Commonwealth Office continue to advise against “against all but essential international travel”, you already know you’re better off at home than trying to force a vacation in a country that doesn’t want you quite yet. (Better plan: start here to plan for Thailand … in the Future Times).

‍What about domestic travel?

‍As I hit publish on this post, The Thai Hotels Association requested a THB100 billion (US$3.2 billion) bailout from the Finance Ministry and Bank of Thailand. While domestic travel has been heavily promoted in recent months, tourist economies like Phuket and Koh Samui are struggling. (No sugar-coating … it’s bad).

A domestic travel stimulus, ‘Wetraveltogether’, runs from July through October (or until the THB22.4 billion put towards the program has been claimed). Any Thai national aged 20 and above can book domestic hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions for up to 40% off. Also, hotels, airlines and other travel services are offering steep discounts (including high-end Koh Samui villas for as little as US$300/night). So far, only 17% of the available funds have been claimed and, as such, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) plans to tweak the programme and extend it through the end of the year.

‍Is Bangkok Airways flying again?

‍Yes! Domestic flights stopped completely for a period, however, they’re running again at a reduced schedule. Face masks are of course mandatory – all other details available at Bangkok Airways’s COVID page.

Bangkok to Koh Samui: There are now approximately fourteen daily flights between Bangkok and Koh Samui (twelve run daily, and two others offered a few days per week). This will increase in late October and again in December.
Koh Samui to Phuket, Chiang Mai and U-Tapao (Pattaya): Daily flights to Chiang Mai and U-Tapao, and twice-weekly flights to Phuket are set to resume.
Passenger lounges have re-opened at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (06:00 to 16:00) and Koh Samui Airport (08:00 to 18:00).
In-flight meals: Passengers will receive a pre-packed meal box including snacks and a sealed drink starting mid-September.

There are hints that Bangkok Airways might resume international flights in January 2021, starting with routes to Cambodia, then perhaps Yangon, Hong Kong and Singapore (subject to governmental approval).

‍What about visa extensions?

‍As the Thai border shut in April, a ‘visa amnesty’ was issued to any non-Thai nationals who would either have to leave the country (but couldn’t) or report at an immigration office (as is the case for foreign residents every ninety days). The amnesty has been extended since but expires on September 26th. Many such individuals are now preparing to leave Thailand following, perhaps, a much longer stay than anticipated.

‍Thai Airways special flights

‍While Thai Airways has ceased international flights through at least October 2020, they’re offering ‘special flights’ on one-way tickets to Copenhagen, Munich, Frankfurt, London, Paris, Taipei, Hong Kong and Seoul a few times per week through mid- to late October.

‍So what’s the plan to reopen Thailand?

‍Right now, this question gets a different answer at different levels, and a variety of plans have been suggested. I’ll outline them below but reiterate that things can change (and have) at the last minute.

‍The Phuket Model (probably not happening): How does this sound? You fly into Phuket (or another tourist hotspot) and quarantine at a designated hotel for fourteen days (not necessarily in your room, but in a kilometre-square ‘play pen’ that might include a stretch of beach). Following your quarantine, you can vacation as you like around the island (for instance Phuket or Koh Samui). You may or may not have to wear a wristband. There’s a COVID test at the start and finish of quarantine. Want to go elsewhere in Thailand? More quarantine for you.

‍Safe and Sealed/travel bubbles (probably not happening): Various iterations of this plan involved ‘Safe and Sealed’ ‘travel bubbles’ with (A) ‘safe’ countries such as Australia and New Zealand and/or (B) ‘safe’ cities with no COVID cases for 30 days. Again, destinations would be ‘sealable’ islands such as Phuket or Koh Samui. Minimum spends of THB100,000 were suggested as well as a thirty-day minimum stay. Arrival numbers would be strictly capped.

‍Delays and changed plans: Plans were being made to start a cautious and limited re-opening in Phuket, along the lines of the plans above, however, delays became likely following Thailand’s first new COVID case reported in over 100 days (as well as outbreaks in aforementioned ‘safe’ countries and cities).

‍Widespread opposition: Compounding the noise is the crucial fact that many Thais want to keep their country safe and don’t want to rush back to normal with open borders. (Bangkok Post polls put this at 94% of those surveyed). The ‘Phuket Model’ plan has received a lot of criticism from both Phuket residents and domestic Thai travellers alike. As such, the entire plan might be scrapped with Alternative State Quarantine (ASQ) required for all visitors or, what looks more likely as of announcements this week: the Special Tourist Visa.

Just announced: Special Tourist Visa

As of yesterday, September 15th 2020, the Thai cabinet approved a new visa category for long-stay visitors, dubbed the Special Tourist Visa (STV). The visa will be valid for 90 days, renewable for a second and third ‘batch’ of ninety days (up to a total of 270 days).

Special Tourist Visas will be issued starting in October
14-day Alternative State Quarantine will be mandatory, either in Bangkok or in ‘ALSQ’ (Alternative Local State Quarantine – currently three choices in Phuket, one in Buriram and one in Chonburi with others to follow in tourist hubs such as Koh Samui).
Unlike the scrapped/rebranded ‘Phuket model’, visitors will be allowed to travel throughout Thailand after completing the quarantine period. Use of an app will be required to keep in touch with immigration authorities throughout the visitor’s stay.
At the time of writing, it has not been announced which countries will be eligible for the Special Tourist Visa as past announcements have shown a strong preference for allowing only ‘safe’ countries.
Thailand expert Richard Barrow offers more details: traveller numbers will be limited to two to three flights per week of perhaps one hundred passengers (aiming for twelve hundred visitors per month). Other requirements include COVID-19 insurance (coverage to US$100,000), and miscellaneous documentation, plus a current (and negative) COVID test taken 72 hours before departure.

If you’re a retiree who hates winter … stay tuned. The STV will cost THB2,000 (US$60) per person for the first ninety days, and each subsequent renewal.

Confused? Not to worry – We will likely know more concrete details in a month or so, towards late October. I'll post more as it's available – please join my email list if you'd like to get these updates (and a few stuck-at-home Thai cooking experiments).

Can’t quarantine for two weeks but still want to travel to Thailand sometime? TAT acknowledges this might be tricky and is considering ways to make such travel safe – no details yet.

Now what? I’ve concluded, as perhaps you have, that we need to stay home for now and simply watch this space. My optimistic side is hoping for a Christmas miracle – others (including the deputy governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand ... who just might be better informed) predict it will be 2021 when something resembling normal travel resumes. (Perhaps Q2 next year: April/May/June).

What to do now, to keep Thailand on the cards for “someday soon?”The very best thing you can do, today, is helping out in any way that you can: approximately four million Thai people worked in the tourism sector and many could use your support.

To get updates on Thailand’s COVID plans and tourism, please join my weekly emails and you’ll get new details from me as more details are announced.

Longer-term travel planning: To start planning your “someday” trip to Thailand – start here. (For Koh Samui details, jump into The Koh Samui Guide).

‍Resources and further reading

September 2020 (part 1)

Many of us have spent the past six months in a messy-bun blur of Tiger King-binging, sourdough-starting, day-drinking and perhaps waiting for a Peloton to arrive. Unfortunately, on Koh Samui, the reality is dire and, increasingly, many people require food handouts and donations for essentials. I’ve delayed writing this post for ages, hoping for something good to say… but 2020 defies sugarcoating.

Whether you’re a repeat visitor and hold the island dear, or you’re planning a “someday hopefully soon” trip to Thailand – here’s a September update on everything Koh Samui and COVID-19. I understand that this might be tough to read – literally trouble in paradise – but there are plenty of ways you can help (find them linked at the bottom).Six months of no tourists? Not great for an island almost entirely reliant on tourism. Similar to Phuket, Koh Samui’s depends on tourism (coconuts are its second industry and account for just ten per cent). For comparison, 2019 was a relatively quiet year for Samui tourist arrivals and welcomed 2.3 million visitors.

As we enter Month Six of this alternate zombie reality, island scenes mirror what you’re perhaps seeing in your own hometowns: shops, restaurants, bars and small businesses boarded up, with new for sale/for lease signs each week. Many Koh Samui residents are relying on government subsidies where applicable (though such payments finish this month) and increasingly need charitable donations for necessities.

My favourite on-island blogger, Camille Lemmens, reports that even mainstays like Family Mart and 7-Eleven are starting to shut in locations that previously had high traffic: on Chaweng and Choeng Mon beach roads, for instance.

While domestic tourism might offer a short-term boost, the next few months and into 2021 are worrying and could mean permanent closures for many island restaurants, hotels and businesses.

Without work, many people previously employed in Samui’s tourist sector have returned or will return, home to elsewhere in Thailand and Myanmar – an exodus of perhaps a few thousand people so far.

At hotels, staffing levels are reduced to minimums and those who remain employed may have had significant salary cuts. Quoted in The Guardian, Lloyd Maraville, General Manager of Nora Buri Resort and Spa, explains that “profit is out of the question at this moment, we just want to maintain the resort.”

‍Resources and further reading

Thailand's Holiday Hotspots Have Become Dystopian Ghost Towns

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